Fat fun
When a restaurant declares that it aims at fine dining, it's there to be shot at. And most, in my experience, crash to the ground in flames.
The crucial matter isn't just the food - as important as that is - but the whole package of what the restaurant offers.
The decor must be stylish, the tables set smartly, the wine list extensive and the service slick.
This week I visited The Fat Cat in High Street, Solihull, which seeks to be regarded as such an establishment.
With one or two reservations, I was impressed by the food, based on good ingredients handled with skill and respect to create modern, light and flavoursome dishes.
But the olde worlde nature of the premises I thought made the place better suited to be a bistro than upmarket joint.
But it's not a meal I'm going to knock - it was an enjoyable evening.
A review will be in the Food + Drink section of the Birmingham Mail on Thursday.
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Paul Fulford - Features Editor Paul Fulford gives his verdict on the region’s restaurants.
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