December 2008 Archives

There comes a time over the festive period when we groan: "No more food. No more drink. I've had enough."

Then later - usually about five minutes later - boredom and greed kick in and off we go in search of a treat.

Last night was such an occasion so off we headed for a meal out. And what a treat it proved to be.

We went to The Oak at Hockley Heath and the place was packed, suggesting others shared our weakness of resolve.

I've just been writing a review of Birmingham's culinary year for the Food + Drink section of the Birmingham Mail and it struck me how many good restaurants this city now has.

I wondered whether to list my top five, but, in truth, I'd find it difficult to do so because I've eaten some fabulous meals over the past 12 months.

Of course, Simpson's, Purnell's and Edmunds would all feature highly. But I'd find it impossible to rank any higher than the other because each is different from the others and all offer a memorable experience.

Among the gifts that Santa left beneath the Christmas tree was a fabulous book about the Spanish restaurant El Bulli, frequently voted the best in the world.

It's jam-packed with photographs and information, with a few recipes scattered through for those who have access to ingredients such as liquid nitrogen and equipment such as syringes to create little bubbles of flavour.

The pioneering cuisine at El Bulli - so modern it makes the food of Heston Blumenthal appear dated - mightn't be everyone's cup of freeze-dried tea, but it fascinates me.

A mountain of spuds lurk in the cellar alongside many bottles of wine, a heap of sprouts lie in the fridge next to the cranberries and the free range turky will be delivered tonight by my supplier Simon.

This time in 48 hours, Christmas lunch will have been eaten and - fingers crossed - the 16 people who are invited will be full and happy.

Unlike previous years, I've had a dry run - namely when I cooked a full Christmas dinner for an edition of the Central telly programme Real Cooks screened last Thursday (a trailer is available on this website's video section and on You Tube for anyone interested).

Was I the only person whose jaw dropped as Nigella Lawson prepared Christmas treats while a piano tinkled the tune of The Red Flag on her dreadful television show last night?

Here was one of the country's richest women fluttering her eye lashes and pouting along to one of the mightiest anthems ever penned.

Please, pedants, don't point out that the tune is actually that of an old German song - today it resonates because of its links with the socialist movement.

What next? Delia Smith cooking a souffle to the strains of the Internationale?

The moment of truth tomorrow night - the moment when a gobby restaurant critic who's been known to fling a few missiles at under-performing restaurants finds his own food under the spotlight on TV.

A special Christmas edition of Real Cooks will be screened at 10.40pm on Central on Thursday in which I rustle up a festive dinner and then watch as Michelin-star winner Andy Waters passes judgment.

I 've not seen a preview of the programme so I've no idea whether I emerge with my dignity (such as it is ) in place or not.

All I know is that it's far easier being a critic than a chef.

Beware a waitress who brandishes no pen or notepad!

I used to quite like the idea of a server not having to note down what I'd ordered, imagining it suggested flawness professionalism.

But a visit to Zizzi in Harborne last week changed that view after two orders failed to materialise.

My review of the meal - or those aspects that arrived - will be in Thursday's Food + Drink section of the Birmingham Mail.

After a few months' vegetarianism, my teenage son has finally returned to meat-eating ways.

It started on Friday when he tucked into a big bowl of chilli con carne. Then on Saturday we shared a roasted a duck. On Sunday he he breakfasted on a bacon sandwich before dining on a steaming plate of beef stew.

It's certainly going to make shopping a cooking a lot easier, though we do always try to have a couple of veggie meals each week.

When a restaurant declares that it aims at fine dining, it's there to be shot at. And most, in my experience, crash to the ground in flames.

The crucial matter isn't just the food - as important as that is - but the whole package of what the restaurant offers.

The decor must be stylish, the tables set smartly, the wine list extensive and the service slick.

This week I visited The Fat Cat in High Street, Solihull, which seeks to be regarded as such an establishment.

A disadvantage of working (I use that word with reservations) as a restaurant critic is the gaining of weight.

Look at most of us and we are decidedly tubby if not - in some cases - gross.

Over the years I've run many, many miles to keep off those unwanted pounds, but age has caught up with me and sore knees mean I've not put on my training shoes for a good few weeks.