A Brummie star

By Paul Fulford on Nov 14, 08 08:46 AM

I don't expect any sympathy cards, but one of the hard bits about being a restaurant critic is that I eat out so often that I don't often get the chance to revisit my favourite places.

That wasn't the case last night, though, when my wife and I went to Purnell's in Cornwall Street in the city centre for a meal that was purely for pleasure rather than to write a review.

We ate the tasting menu and, from start to finish, it was magnificent. Glynn Purnell's unerring ability to match flavours and textures is impressive. Likewise the technique deployed in his kitchen.

It would be difficult to name highlights - but I was especially impressed by wonderfully tender, tasty venison served with garlicky beans, a potato terriine and liquorice. His egg custard dessert was superb, too.

Interestingly, many of the other customers seemed to be from out of town so maybe Puirnell's has become a destination restaurant.

I'd be stunned if Mr Michelin doesn't bestow a star (or even two) in the new year.