Blanc looks

By Paul Fulford on September 11, 2008 8:09 AM | Permalink

Though I'm far from certain about any of the contenders in the new series of The Restaurant, it was great to see Raymond Blanc back on our TV screens last night.

He's has had a huge impact on this country's culinary scene: well over 20 chefs who now hold Michelin stars have worked for him and the standards set at Le Manoir are virtually unrivalled.

A few years back I spent a day in the kitchen with him at the old Brasserie Blanc in Brindleyplace which was a revelation: his palate was amazing and though he's a perfectionist, he was calm and courteous with his brigade.

He can also be clumsy - mainly because of his enthusiasm.

Sitting at the table with him, he sent a full wine glass flying as he thrashed his arms about in true French fashion to emphasise a point he was making.

He also has an odd turn of phrase. Describing the origins of tart tatin, he said: "It was invented by two French spinsters and was like - how you say? - their orgasm."

Somehow it is a dessert that has never tasted quite the same...