Marco's letdown

By Paul Fulford on July 5, 2008 12:11 PM |

I never got to eat at any of Marco Pierre White's restaurants when he was at his swaggering, Michelin star winning prime.

But I read the reviews and drooled and bought his first two cookbooks and marvelled at the results when I tried out the recipes. He was a culinary giant whose legacy is huge.

So why is the godfather of modern British cookery making now appearing on a rubbish ITV cookery show that's a sort of simpleton's answer to the Great British Menu?

His comments are banal and his use of stock cubes a betrayal of everything good cookery should be about.

There's something mightily sad when those whose talents we respect and admire somehow let themselves down.

Marco, take your cigarettes, yourself and your loathing of Gordon Ramsay back to the shadows. This television series will do nothing to cement your reputation as one of the greatest British chefs of all time.

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Paul Fulford
Features Editor Paul Fulford gives his verdict on the region’s restaurants.

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