Cut above the rest

A boned and rolled shoulder of organically reared lamb lurks in my fridge ready for Sunday dinner.

Once I loved lean joints that were roasted fast in a furious heat. These days I prefer cuts with more fat that benefit from longer cooking at lower temperatures so they emerge from the oven meltingly tender. And that's how I intend to cook the lamb shoulder. Funny how tastes change.

It's a dinner I'm really looking forward to - not only because I adore lamb, but also because our younger son Ewan has been appearing in a Stage 2 production of Teechers at the Crescent Theatre this week and his schedule means he's hardly eaten anything good and substantial since the weekend.

What better way to sit back down at the dinner table?